Wednesday, July 22, 2020

“The Most Beautiful Places On Earth”


PREFACE:  July, 1988   We were on an Earth Watch Expedition watching a Fijian sunset on Malolo Lai lai.  After a candle lit dinner someone asked the group to “name the most beautiful places you’ve ever seen.” This was the most well traveled group I’d ever come across so I immediately opened my journal and wrote their answers, adding to the life list I started as a seventh grader. 
“Hong Kong Harbor at night, and Bora Bora, . . .  “The most beautiful places on earth."  -- said my well heeled dinner companions. It was July of 1988 and I was determined to experience the beauty of these new highly regarded destinations.

Soon I was on a freighter bound for Bora Bora when I first witnessed that: “it takes a village to raise a child.” I could have flown from Papaete to Bora Bora but I’d have missed spending the night with a ship load of dancers from the outer islands including Taha’a, Huahine and Raiatea. The annual Tahitian dance competition had just ended with large families, whole villages bound for home. Performers pulled out instruments as the sun set filling the deck with enchanting Tahitian ballads. The importance of family was writ large as I watched a small child crawl onto the laps of various adults. I wondered which ones were his parents. By the time I’d counted him with seven different grownups I realized this kid knew everyone in the village, and no one would refuse taking him on their lap. “It takes a village.”  Villagers began unrolling grass mats onto the freighters deck. We’d all be sleeping on the deck under a sparkling canopy of southern constellations. It was time to sleep but no one on a PA system telling people what to do. Four thousand miles into the Pacific Ocean, I was spending my first night in a polychronic universe.  Click HERE for more on Chronometrics

CHAPTER 1: Has anyone on their death bed ever said: "I wish I’d spent more time at the office." When my last moments are at hand, I'd like to be able to tell my grandchildren and their children, the important things I've learned along the way.

I’d start with...Make a list of all the wonderful, interesting, enjoyable, exciting things you want to do across the arc of your lifetime... then start doing them.  For me it was to 
1. Walk Mary Leakey’s steps along Olduvai Gorge where she found the remains of our earliest ancestors. Yes, it was Mary not Louis that picked up those first bone fragments.  It would take me nearly five more decades to arrive in Nairobi, on my way to find Mary’s footprints on the history of Africa.  
2. Jump out of an airplane, and fly like an eagle until my parachute carries me on a bold and uplifting wind to places where the signposts are unfamiliar. 
3... see the rest of my list.  --- >      --- >      --- >      --- >      --- >


Make your LIFE LIST. While you do, let me tell you a story.

As a 7th grader, after listening to renowned explorer John Goddard, I began to build my list not knowing the passing years to the day I’d begin actualizing those dreams. It would be a decade before I’d jump out of that plane.

It was 1960 that John Goddard presented his Amazon Adventure Film Documentary at an assembly at my school, Luther Burbank Junior High. Goddard, solo,  had taken a long canoe down the length of the Amazon River.  What a story teller! His documentary was a narrative of his journey. While sleeping one night in his long boat, while anchored on the river, he was attacked by a giant Amazon anaconda. Wrapped in the constricting death grip of this larger than a man predator, and with only one arm free, he grabbed a machete and hacked at his nemesis until he lost consciousness. Still wrapped in giant Anaconda coils, he awakened hours later to find dead his attacker.
Follow this link to his website.
http://www.johngoddard.info/

Afterward, Mr. Goddard descended the stage for a Q & A. Standing just two rows before me, in an almost whisper he spoke these words: “Make a list of all the things you want to do during your lifetime, then set about doing them.”

That night, inspired by Goddard’s philosophy and his sense of adventure, I pulled my National Geographic collection off the self and along with my Encyclopaedia Britannica, began work on my personal LIFE list.  --- >


Years later I divided my life list into two catagories: 1.  the things that require a measure of stamina like climbing Kilimanjaro, skiing the Alps, or mounting an expedition to Olduvai Gorge and 2. those less athletic activities for later in life like wandering the galleries of the Louvre or visiting Venus de Milo or wondering about the mind of Michaelangelo before his 17 foot tall marble masterpiece David at the Galleria dell’Accademia in Florence, or walking Japanese village streets ‘neath cherry trees heavy and pregnant in full blossom.

An excellent plan had I. While I never reached the top of Mount Everest, I am looking forward to the Colosso di Rodi (the Colossus of Rhodes), in Greece and treasures closer to home like Off Broadway in New York City. I’ve always wanted a romantic trip to Trevi Fountain from the 1954 movie Three Coins in the Fountain. Now I have someone I treasure, to share the romance of Trevi, Cinque Terra, perhaps then, on to Paris, Papaeete, Kyoto, Florence ...

So many things to do in a lifetime, so many ways to find ourselves.
Though no one previously suggested placing: “have grandchildren” on my LIFE LIST, I certainly do now that I have two. It is a remarkable experience.
Family is good place to start.
My grown children Leandra, and Jason, have come to possess such remarkable qualities. I never imagined I'd admire them so.

Lea has also brought two breath taking treasures into my life: Samantha, first grandchild and Cameron, first grandson. Since I was a first grandchild I’ve come to understand why my grandparents were so loving, kind and tender with me. There was never a moment in my childhood that lacked for affection.
There was always a lap and a warm and comforting embrace waiting for me. I felt …
unconditional love and it has shaped the person I am today and the man I’ll come to be in the future.

Along the arc of my life, I've included stops along my LIFE'S LIST, and I encourage each of you to stop what you are doing by listing five things to start your LIFE LIST.

Here's one from mine . . .


Watching a gorgeous golden, glittering on South Pacific water-setting sun,
a group of extremely well traveled American’s were having dinner with me
on the little Fijian island: Malolo lai lai.

We were on an Earth Watch Expedition to study coral growth and recovery in the months following a hurricane. A year before, a hurricane 
had scrubbed away the reef surrounding Malolo lai lai. Mornings and afternoons we mapped the reef and collected data, evenings we enjoyed sunset dinner by candle light.
One evening after dinner while watching sunlight play off the water (see photo) we settled into a discussion about the most beautiful places in the world. Being so young, I jotted down a few quick notes.

"Bora Bora is the most beautiful place on Earth." said one very well heeled traveler.
"Hong Kong harbor at night." added another,
and on into the twilight did they share their stories.

Bora Bora went to the top of my Lifetime List.
And I agree, when I finally arrived many years later, it was the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen, 17 shades of lagoon blue as our freighter threaded the fringing reefs, but what made it an extra ordinary experience . . .
the incomparably gentle people of the Tahitian archipelago.

From Papaete, most visitors take a small plane to Bora Bora,
Being that Tahiti is one of the most expensive places to visit
and that I had only a humble teacher's income,
I discovered a local freighter that cut a route between Papaete, Huahine, Taha'a, Raiatea, and Bora Bora. "Take a grass woven beach mat." I was advised, "You'll be sleeping under the stars on the steel deck of that freighter."

Of the three freighters, take the "Hawaiki Nui”, the best, by a long shot but not a honeymoon voyage.

That overnight freighter trip introduced me to the wonderful people of Bora Bora who were returning home after their all island dance competition in Papaete.

Watching the sun set,
and twilight paint the sky,
we prepared for the evening as the local people
sang softly in the evening breeze. . . . . .

It takes a Village.
Each island carries to this annual competition it’s children’s dance groups, adult dancers, and musicians, and on that South Pacific dreamy night, a few musicians strummed their instruments while a soft chorus of voices floated across the deck.
Listening, relaxing with each resonant note, I watched a three year old boy climb into his mother’s, and later his father’s lap.
Such a charming and handsome lad, I noticed how he was warmly embraced as he continued to gather the affection of so many adults that I began to wonder, which one’s were his actual parents.
And there
was I struck by the epiphany:
Here, in Tahiti, in Bora Bora,
it takes a village to raise a child.
I see it now, that little boy felt that each of those adults loved him,
cared for him.
That each was a parent to him.
Therein lies the magic,
the beauty of Bora Bora.

Over the communications loud speaker, our Captain notified tourists:
“For those interested, we’ll be sailing into Bora Bora’s lagoon at sunrise:
an experience well worth the early hour."

Under a breathless canopy of a South Pacific Starry Starry Night,
songs and faint laughter floated on a cool breeze, families began unrolling grass mats onto the expansive steel deck. I unrolled my mat and gazed up at the Southern Cross. A family from Bora Bora quietly moved in next to me.
A southern sky shooting star, was the last thing I remember before falling asleep.
I awakened just after 5 am wanting to be on the bow when we sailed into Bora Bora.
From the grass mat of the family next to me, a four year old, in his sleep had drifted on to my mat and was warmly snuggled in by my side. I was forever charmed by the gentleness, authenticity and tenderness of these people.
I'd become part of the village it takes to raise a child.
Moving ever so quietly, and oh so slowly, I rose from the sleeping child on my mat and made way to the bow under early morning light.


Off to the distant eastern horizon lay Bora Bora emergent from the night, eager for the dawn.

The captain from his pilot house expertly piloted his lumbering freighter into Bora Bora's fringing barrier reef's winding channels, I watched from the bow.  At his first slow turn starboard, a stunning American expatriate quietly joined me on the bow, her hair lifted softly by cool morning's breeze. She was beautiful but lost, at first she seemed like an actress who'd run away from Hollywood's madness. She invited us to join her for lunch at the Hotel Bora Bora.

But I could not take my eyes long from
the 17 shades of breathtaking lagoon blue as we plied reef's waters,
bow waves lapping below
while the captain made way for landing.

It's true,
the old sailor's myth
"the gates of heaven
'b hidden somewhere in the South Pacific."

Heavenly waters,
heavenly island,
and loving
gentle people.
Paradise found.



Below, is a video clip link that includes scenes from Tahiti and French Polynesia.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KxvaTIH064



No one ever complained from their death bed: "I wish I'd spent more time at the office."









Ah. Remembering my 2006 pilgrimage to meditate with the Great Buddha of Nara Japan . .



















And for the future:  Mosi-oa-Tunya (Victoria Falls)





Sculpt in White Carrara Marble


Kyoto, Capital for 1,000 Years

Walking With the Maasai


When I was 13 years old, the Olduvai Gorge and the Great Rift Valley was the first entry on Life List, a dream of walking in the footsteps of Mary Leakey, where she discovered the fossilized bone fragments of one of our  most ancient human ancestors.  Come back for that story. It would take over forty years to actualize that inspiration, to take it from my mind and make it happen in the real world.

I finally took that journey, but planning a trip to East Africa was very different than making my life list. First step, order adventure travel catalogs. Soon one arrived that described a “Walk With The Maasai” with Iain Allen of Tropical Ice Adventure Travel headquartered in Nairobi. What follows is that month long journey.  A few months later I touch down in Nairobi, but my luggage was lost in Amsterdam. It will take three days to catch up with me. So I awaken to the unusual cawing of african birds and explore the  city that started as a clonal railway settlement in the 1890's.  Worried my luggage won't arrive by the time my safari departs, I buy a journalists jacket as cool nights are expected on the Maasai Mara.

When I remember Africa, the first images that fall from the cumulonimbus clouds of memory are the sparkling smiles of the Maasai. 

We visit a menyatta, (village),
surrounded by a boma (a circular wall of heavily thorned bushes).

Photo credit: Toby Manzanares, (all photos except as noted otherwise.)



Celebrating a Maasai Wedding a days drive west of Nairobi.
We are granted permission to set up camp not far from their village, where we stay for three nights.

Two Maasai warriors jump as high as they can for the joy and pleasure rather than in competition.


Photo credit: Tropical Ice





Prior to our departure one of our Maasai hosts asked if I’d send back photos when I got home.   Back at home, I wrote to Iian Allen, our Tropical Ice guide asking if he’d give my village friends the link to this web page.


Cows are brought into the boma each afternoon to protect them overnight from prowling lions.



Maasai wedding: the father of the bride is seated.
When a teenager when he survived a lion attack. 
The boy that saved his life was my Maasai guide. That story coming soon. 

Photo credit: Tropical Ice





Seated here is the father of the bride, childhood friends with one of our Maasai guides. When they were kids, their job was to graze and guard the village cows. 


Fiji


#2 The Inca Walls of Macchu Picchu


Photo by Toby Manzanares


The Inca Wall: Engineering so precise
a sheet of paper cannot be wedged between Inca stones.














During the 1940's my grandfather Federico Manzanares built our Monte Vista Colorado home from stone quarried in the San Luis Valley. He cut those stones with such precision that when I visited Cusco and walked the Inca Wall, I immediately thought of my grandfather. Solid as the Inca Wall, our home stands in testimony of his engineering skills.


If Macchu Picchu is on your life list, then there is no one better that Rosa to guide that part of your journey. Tour companies will charge you over $5,000 for six days, but contact her directly for this adventure.... here is her email address:  COMING SOON

Rosa Alegria Gonzales, my extraordinary Quechua speaking guide told me of the best place to observe the great Andean condors: Colca Canyon (see the map below.)



In the 7th grade, when I logged Macchu Picchu into by Life List, I did not know about the condors of Colca Canyon. Now I see Colca as a must for anyone's Life List. See the trailer below.

The Great Condors of Colca Canyon
 
 
We awakened early, took a quick breakfast and left immediately to arrive at the rim of Colca Canyon by sunrise.  As the sun warmed the canyon, condors deep down in the canyon were soon circling on the up drafting air. As the seconds slipped by, their orbital path brought them up to eye level. Then the unexpected magic happened, a circling Andean condor flew just inches over my head, I could hear the air sliding off it's wings. It was very much worth arriving before sunrise. I'd do it again in a New York millisecond.



While in Peru, I learned that over 500 Species of Potato grow in Andean microbiomes.  
 
 
In terms of world history I learned that Simón Bolivar came very close to creating the United States of South America, seeking independence from Spain. He was highly regarded by our guides while visiting Bolivia. He would have been regarded on a level higher than George Washington. Bolivar is one of the very few people ever to have a country named after them.

Gassan Sadatoshi: Japanese Swordsmiths for 800 years.

I'm on a quest to find the family of the man who made my great grandfather's Samurai Sword.

A good first step is to find one of Japan's best swordsmiths... but that was not my plan.  Finding Gassan was a gift from my new friends in Asuka Village and Sakura City near Nara.

More about how this came to be... coming soon. 

I rushed back from my pilgrimage to Hiroshima to meet one of Japan's National Living Treasures:

I met Gassan Sadatoshi at his home and sword making studio in Sakura City, not far from Nara and discovered his philosophical world view:  "Swords are not for fighting."





Documentary
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Bora Bora


South Gate to Heaven

South Gate to Heaven




and...

Tunnel of Love ... Ukraine


From a Dream






MEET THE PEOPLE ALONG THE PAN AMERICAN HIGHWAY

The PanAmerican Highway, 19,000 miles between  Tierra Del Feugo at the sourthern most tip of Argentina and Prudhoe Alaska and further to the northern most tip of the United States...Utqiagvik (formerly Barrow) Alaska. 
 
My plan is to take the route in segments, walking some, driving some the distance, with the pure goal of meeting as many people along the way as there is time to enjoy with them.



As of October 2022 I've completed  the following segments:  

* Fairbanks north  
* Fairbanks to White Horse
* Denver to Ciudad Juarez
* Mexico City
* Lima





Next?

Gorillas In The Mist

 Long on my list: Photo Safari to the Gorillas of the Congo.  I read Daniel Quinn's very moving novel: Instinct* which was made into a stirring movie starring Anthony Hopkins as an anthropologist studying mountain gorillas in the Congo (sufficient inspiration to add this to my Life List).


Photo credit: https://www.virungaparkcongo.com/information/gorilla-trekking-africa/


My wife Patricia had a Design student a few years ago that one day will be a renowned travel photographer:  Elissa Title.  She recently took a gorilla trek.

Click HERE for Elissa's safari to photograph Gorillas in the mist.

Instinct (1999) is an American psychological thriller worth watching and starring Cuba Gooding, and Donald Sutherland with Anthony Hopkins. This film was loosely based on Daniel Quinn's novel Ishmael (also worth a read).


CAIRO


Patricia slipped into Simple, an upscale boutique here in Laguna Beach California. There is a subtle but visible difference in the boutique as though arranged by an artist from a more beautiful world. That would be Sammy to whom I chat while Patricia's keen artistic eyes fondle the fabrics. This is her favorite exclusive shop. A she browses for a few minutes, someone offers to show her an even more beautiful dress.
 
Sammy is vibrant and animated. I mention my Life List which includes walking the streets of Cairo and sailing up the Nile. He directs me to the far end of his store where he introduces me to Jennie Hesham Elmished, his English wife from New York, I can hear a little London in her voice.  It's not long before the four of us are chatting over dinner.
 
 
 I drive downtown to join Sammy and Jenni for coffee and breakfast at Zinc Caffe. This is how life ought to be.  
 
“Try, try, try, try.” Sammy tells me: “That is the difference between Egypt and America. Americans try, try, try. Try new things, open minded. 
 
Buy Egypt does not try new things because of the Nile. Each year the Nile fills the Egyptian flood plane with fresh, nutrient rich silt. So rich is it that Egyptian farm work is very light. They don’t have to work the land. The rich silt grows everything in great abundance. Every year it is the same, why try anything new? No need to try, try, try.”
 
An epiphany, the Pyramids of Egypt were possible only because of that rich silt flooding from the Nile, creating an unparalleled abundance, that is the foundation of the great Pyramids.

 
 
Patricia finds a fifth book! (We are midway into this novel.)