Wednesday, July 22, 2020

“The Most Beautiful Places On Earth”


PREFACE:  July, 1988   We were on an Earth Watch Expedition watching a Fijian sunset on Malolo Lai lai.  After a candle lit dinner someone asked the group to “name the most beautiful places you’ve ever seen.” This was the most well traveled group I’d ever come across so I immediately opened my journal and wrote their answers, adding to the life list I started as a seventh grader. 
“Hong Kong Harbor at night, and Bora Bora, . . .  “The most beautiful places on earth."  -- said my well heeled dinner companions. It was July of 1988 and I was determined to experience the beauty of these new highly regarded destinations.

Soon I was on a freighter bound for Bora Bora when I first witnessed that: “it takes a village to raise a child.” I could have flown from Papaete to Bora Bora but I’d have missed spending the night with a ship load of dancers from the outer islands including Taha’a, Huahine and Raiatea. The annual Tahitian dance competition had just ended with large families, whole villages bound for home. Performers pulled out instruments as the sun set filling the deck with enchanting Tahitian ballads. The importance of family was writ large as I watched a small child crawl onto the laps of various adults. I wondered which ones were his parents. By the time I’d counted him with seven different grownups I realized this kid knew everyone in the village, and no one would refuse taking him on their lap. “It takes a village.”  Villagers began unrolling grass mats onto the freighters deck. We’d all be sleeping on the deck under a sparkling canopy of southern constellations. It was time to sleep but no one on a PA system telling people what to do. Four thousand miles into the Pacific Ocean, I was spending my first night in a polychronic universe.  Click HERE for more on Chronometrics

CHAPTER 1: Has anyone on their death bed ever said: "I wish I’d spent more time at the office." When my last moments are at hand, I'd like to be able to tell my grandchildren and their children, the important things I've learned along the way.

I’d start with...Make a list of all the wonderful, interesting, enjoyable, exciting things you want to do across the arc of your lifetime... then start doing them.  For me it was to 
1. Walk Mary Leakey’s steps along Olduvai Gorge where she found the remains of our earliest ancestors. Yes, it was Mary not Louis that picked up those first bone fragments.  It would take me nearly five more decades to arrive in Nairobi, on my way to find Mary’s footprints on the history of Africa.  
2. Jump out of an airplane, and fly like an eagle until my parachute carries me on a bold and uplifting wind to places where the signposts are unfamiliar. 
3... see the rest of my list.  --- >      --- >      --- >      --- >      --- >


Make your LIFE LIST. While you do, let me tell you a story.

As a 7th grader, after listening to renowned explorer John Goddard, I began to build my list not knowing the passing years to the day I’d begin actualizing those dreams. It would be a decade before I’d jump out of that plane.

It was 1960 that John Goddard presented his Amazon Adventure Film Documentary at an assembly at my school, Luther Burbank Junior High. Goddard, solo,  had taken a long canoe down the length of the Amazon River.  What a story teller! His documentary was a narrative of his journey. While sleeping one night in his long boat, while anchored on the river, he was attacked by a giant Amazon anaconda. Wrapped in the constricting death grip of this larger than a man predator, and with only one arm free, he grabbed a machete and hacked at his nemesis until he lost consciousness. Still wrapped in giant Anaconda coils, he awakened hours later to find dead his attacker.
Follow this link to his website.
http://www.johngoddard.info/

Afterward, Mr. Goddard descended the stage for a Q & A. Standing just two rows before me, in an almost whisper he spoke these words: “Make a list of all the things you want to do during your lifetime, then set about doing them.”

That night, inspired by Goddard’s philosophy and his sense of adventure, I pulled my National Geographic collection off the self and along with my Encyclopaedia Britannica, began work on my personal LIFE list.  --- >


Years later I divided my life list into two catagories: 1.  the things that require a measure of stamina like climbing Kilimanjaro, skiing the Alps, or mounting an expedition to Olduvai Gorge and 2. those less athletic activities for later in life like wandering the galleries of the Louvre or visiting Venus de Milo or wondering about the mind of Michaelangelo before his 17 foot tall marble masterpiece David at the Galleria dell’Accademia in Florence, or walking Japanese village streets ‘neath cherry trees heavy and pregnant in full blossom.

An excellent plan had I. While I never reached the top of Mount Everest, I am looking forward to the Colosso di Rodi (the Colossus of Rhodes), in Greece and treasures closer to home like Off Broadway in New York City. I’ve always wanted a romantic trip to Trevi Fountain from the 1954 movie Three Coins in the Fountain. Now I have someone I treasure, to share the romance of Trevi, Cinque Terra, perhaps then, on to Paris, Papaeete, Kyoto, Florence ...

So many things to do in a lifetime, so many ways to find ourselves.
Though no one previously suggested placing: “have grandchildren” on my LIFE LIST, I certainly do now that I have two. It is a remarkable experience.
Family is good place to start.
My grown children Leandra, and Jason, have come to possess such remarkable qualities. I never imagined I'd admire them so.

Lea has also brought two breath taking treasures into my life: Samantha, first grandchild and Cameron, first grandson. Since I was a first grandchild I’ve come to understand why my grandparents were so loving, kind and tender with me. There was never a moment in my childhood that lacked for affection.
There was always a lap and a warm and comforting embrace waiting for me. I felt …
unconditional love and it has shaped the person I am today and the man I’ll come to be in the future.

Along the arc of my life, I've included stops along my LIFE'S LIST, and I encourage each of you to stop what you are doing by listing five things to start your LIFE LIST.

Here's one from mine . . .


Watching a gorgeous golden, glittering on South Pacific water-setting sun,
a group of extremely well traveled American’s were having dinner with me
on the little Fijian island: Malolo lai lai.

We were on an Earth Watch Expedition to study coral growth and recovery in the months following a hurricane. A year before, a hurricane 
had scrubbed away the reef surrounding Malolo lai lai. Mornings and afternoons we mapped the reef and collected data, evenings we enjoyed sunset dinner by candle light.
One evening after dinner while watching sunlight play off the water (see photo) we settled into a discussion about the most beautiful places in the world. Being so young, I jotted down a few quick notes.

"Bora Bora is the most beautiful place on Earth." said one very well heeled traveler.
"Hong Kong harbor at night." added another,
and on into the twilight did they share their stories.

Bora Bora went to the top of my Lifetime List.
And I agree, when I finally arrived many years later, it was the most beautiful place I’ve ever seen, 17 shades of lagoon blue as our freighter threaded the fringing reefs, but what made it an extra ordinary experience . . .
the incomparably gentle people of the Tahitian archipelago.

From Papaete, most visitors take a small plane to Bora Bora,
Being that Tahiti is one of the most expensive places to visit
and that I had only a humble teacher's income,
I discovered a local freighter that cut a route between Papaete, Huahine, Taha'a, Raiatea, and Bora Bora. "Take a grass woven beach mat." I was advised, "You'll be sleeping under the stars on the steel deck of that freighter."

Of the three freighters, take the "Hawaiki Nui”, the best, by a long shot but not a honeymoon voyage.

That overnight freighter trip introduced me to the wonderful people of Bora Bora who were returning home after their all island dance competition in Papaete.

Watching the sun set,
and twilight paint the sky,
we prepared for the evening as the local people
sang softly in the evening breeze. . . . . .

It takes a Village.
Each island carries to this annual competition it’s children’s dance groups, adult dancers, and musicians, and on that South Pacific dreamy night, a few musicians strummed their instruments while a soft chorus of voices floated across the deck.
Listening, relaxing with each resonant note, I watched a three year old boy climb into his mother’s, and later his father’s lap.
Such a charming and handsome lad, I noticed how he was warmly embraced as he continued to gather the affection of so many adults that I began to wonder, which one’s were his actual parents.
And there
was I struck by the epiphany:
Here, in Tahiti, in Bora Bora,
it takes a village to raise a child.
I see it now, that little boy felt that each of those adults loved him,
cared for him.
That each was a parent to him.
Therein lies the magic,
the beauty of Bora Bora.

Over the communications loud speaker, our Captain notified tourists:
“For those interested, we’ll be sailing into Bora Bora’s lagoon at sunrise:
an experience well worth the early hour."

Under a breathless canopy of a South Pacific Starry Starry Night,
songs and faint laughter floated on a cool breeze, families began unrolling grass mats onto the expansive steel deck. I unrolled my mat and gazed up at the Southern Cross. A family from Bora Bora quietly moved in next to me.
A southern sky shooting star, was the last thing I remember before falling asleep.
I awakened just after 5 am wanting to be on the bow when we sailed into Bora Bora.
From the grass mat of the family next to me, a four year old, in his sleep had drifted on to my mat and was warmly snuggled in by my side. I was forever charmed by the gentleness, authenticity and tenderness of these people.
I'd become part of the village it takes to raise a child.
Moving ever so quietly, and oh so slowly, I rose from the sleeping child on my mat and made way to the bow under early morning light.


Off to the distant eastern horizon lay Bora Bora emergent from the night, eager for the dawn.

The captain from his pilot house expertly piloted his lumbering freighter into Bora Bora's fringing barrier reef's winding channels, I watched from the bow.  At his first slow turn starboard, a stunning American expatriate quietly joined me on the bow, her hair lifted softly by cool morning's breeze. She was beautiful but lost, at first she seemed like an actress who'd run away from Hollywood's madness. She invited us to join her for lunch at the Hotel Bora Bora.

But I could not take my eyes long from
the 17 shades of breathtaking lagoon blue as we plied reef's waters,
bow waves lapping below
while the captain made way for landing.

It's true,
the old sailor's myth
"the gates of heaven
'b hidden somewhere in the South Pacific."

Heavenly waters,
heavenly island,
and loving
gentle people.
Paradise found.



Below, is a video clip link that includes scenes from Tahiti and French Polynesia.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=9KxvaTIH064



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